A written crochet pattern can be intimidating the first time you see one. A line such as “Row 3: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (12 sts)” looks more like a password than a set of instructions. The good news is that the shorthand is small, consistent and quick to learn. This guide breaks a pattern down section by section, explains the abbreviations used in US and UK patterns, shows how gauge, repeats and stitch counts work, and then walks through a short sample pattern one line at a time.
In this post
- The parts of a crochet pattern
- Crochet abbreviations in US and UK terms
- Understanding gauge
- Repeats: what asterisks, brackets and parentheses mean
- Stitch counts and why they are worth checking
- A sample pattern, read line by line
- Mistakes beginners make when reading patterns
- About crochet charts
- Frequently asked questions
- Next step
The parts of a crochet pattern
Whether a pattern comes from a magazine, a book or a free download, it almost always follows the same order. Once that order is familiar, finding the information you need takes seconds.
- Skill level. Beginner, easy, intermediate or experienced. A beginner rating means basic stitches and little or no shaping.
- Finished measurements. The size of the completed item. Garment patterns list several sizes side by side.
- Materials. Yarn brand, fiber, weight and quantity, the hook size, and any extras such as stitch markers, a tapestry needle, buttons or fiberfill.
- Gauge. The number of stitches and rows that should fit into a set measurement, usually 4 inches (10 cm). There is a full section on this below.
- Abbreviations and special stitches. A key to the shorthand, plus instructions for any stitch that is not standard.
- Pattern notes. Whether turning chains count as stitches, whether the piece is worked flat or in the round, and anything else the designer wants you to know up front.
- Instructions. The rows or rounds themselves, usually with a stitch count in parentheses at the end of each line.
- Finishing. Joining pieces, weaving in ends, blocking and adding embellishments.
Before picking up a hook, read the pattern from top to bottom once. A couple of minutes is enough, and it prevents surprises later, like discovering a special stitch halfway through or a note that the starting chain counts as a stitch.
Crochet abbreviations in US and UK terms
Abbreviations keep a row of instructions on a single line rather than a full paragraph. The catch is that American and British patterns name the stitches differently, and the names overlap: the stitch Americans call single crochet is a double crochet in UK terms, and the US double crochet is a UK treble. The table below covers the abbreviations you will see most often.
| US abbreviation | US stitch name | UK equivalent (abbreviation) |
|---|---|---|
| ch | chain | chain (ch) |
| sl st | slip stitch | slip stitch (ss) |
| sc | single crochet | double crochet (dc) |
| hdc | half double crochet | half treble (htr) |
| dc | double crochet | treble (tr) |
| tr | treble crochet | double treble (dtr) |
| dtr | double treble | triple treble (trtr) |
| st / sts | stitch / stitches | same |
| sp | space | same |
| yo | yarn over | yarn round hook (yrh) |
| inc | increase (two stitches in one) | same |
| dec / sc2tog | decrease / single crochet two together | dc2tog |
| BLO / FLO | back loop only / front loop only | same |
| rep | repeat | same |
| rnd | round | same |
| RS / WS | right side / wrong side | same |
| MR / MC | magic ring / magic circle | same |
To work out which system a pattern uses, look for a note at the top; most designers state it plainly. If there is no note, scan for “sc”. British patterns do not use a single crochet stitch, so the presence of “sc” means you are reading US terms. Chain and slip stitch are identical in both systems, so those two can be trusted whatever the source.
Understanding gauge
Gauge describes how large your stitches should be. A gauge line usually reads something like “16 sc and 18 rows = 4 in (10 cm) with a size H-8 (5 mm) hook”. Translated, that means a square of single crochet made with that hook should have 16 stitches across every 4 inches and 18 rows up every 4 inches.
To test it, make a swatch a bit bigger than the measurement, roughly 6 inches square, in the stitch named in the gauge line. Lay it flat without pulling it, set a ruler or tape measure across the center, and count how many stitches fall within 4 inches. Repeat the measurement vertically for the rows.
- More stitches than the pattern says? Your stitches are too small. Switch to a larger hook.
- Fewer stitches? Your stitches are too big. Switch to a smaller hook.
Gauge is essential for anything that has to fit: hats, garments, socks and mittens. For a blanket, scarf or washcloth, being slightly off only changes the finished size a little. With amigurumi, the precise numbers are less important than keeping the stitches tight enough to hide the stuffing.
Repeats: what asterisks, brackets and parentheses mean
Rather than writing the same instruction a dozen times, designers rely on a few symbols. They look busy on the page, but each has one clear purpose.
The asterisk (*)
An asterisk marks where a repeated sequence begins, and the text that follows tells you how far to carry it. Take “*sc in next st, dc in next st; rep from * across”: work a single crochet, then a double crochet, then return to the asterisk and repeat that pair until the row is finished. A variation is “rep from * 5 more times”, which means the sequence is worked six times altogether, the first pass plus five repeats.
Brackets [ ] and parentheses ( )
Brackets enclose a short group of stitches to be worked a stated number of times, with that number right after the closing bracket: “[2 dc, ch 1] 3 times”. Parentheses tend to do one of two things. They can group stitches that all go into one spot, as in “(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp”, the familiar granny-square corner. They can also hold extra information, such as a stitch count at the end of a row or the figures for different sizes: “ch 42 (46, 50, 54)”.
When brackets sit inside an asterisk repeat, work from the inside outward: complete the bracketed group first, then carry on with the larger repeat.
Stitch counts and why they are worth checking
Most patterns close each row or round with a figure in parentheses, such as “(24 sts)” or “(24 sc)”. That is how many stitches you should have once the row is complete. It is one of the most helpful parts of any pattern, because it flags a mistake immediately rather than ten rows down the line.
While learning, count at the end of every row. Each single crochet forms a small “V” along the top of the fabric; count those Vs rather than the vertical posts. A count that is off by one usually means the first or last stitch of the row was skipped, or two stitches went into the turning chain. For work in the round, a stitch marker placed in the first stitch of each round makes counting far easier.
A sample pattern, read line by line
Below is a short beginner pattern for a small textured square, written exactly as it would appear in a published pattern. Each line is explained underneath.
Ch 13.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (12 sc)
Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), *dc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * across, turn. (12 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (12 sc)
Rows 4–9: Rep Rows 2 and 3 three more times.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Step 1: The starting chain
“Ch 13” means make a slip knot and then work 13 chain stitches. Neither the slip knot nor the loop sitting on the hook is counted; only the completed chains are.
Step 2: Row 1
“Sc in 2nd ch from hook” means skip the chain directly beside the hook and work the first single crochet into the one after it. The skipped chain stands in as the turning chain for this row. “In each ch across” means one single crochet in every chain that remains. Thirteen chains minus the one you skipped leaves 12 single crochets, which matches the “(12 sc)” in the pattern. “Turn” means flip the piece over so the next row can be worked back along the one just finished.
Step 3: Row 2
“Ch 2 (does not count as a st)” raises the yarn to the height of a double crochet, and the note tells you those two chains are not a stitch in their own right. That means the first double crochet goes into the first stitch of the row rather than the second. The asterisk repeat then takes over: double crochet in one stitch, single crochet in the next, all the way across. Across 12 stitches, that pair is worked six times, and the count stays at 12.
Step 4: Row 3
“Ch 1” is the turning chain for a single crochet row, and in almost every pattern it does not count as a stitch. Work one single crochet into each of the 12 stitches, including the final one, which sits on top of the last double crochet of the previous row and is easy to overlook. A quick count at the end confirms nothing was missed.
Step 5: Rows 4 to 9
“Rep Rows 2 and 3 three more times” means work Row 2 and then Row 3, and repeat that pair three times for six additional rows, bringing the total to nine. This sort of shorthand is everywhere in patterns, so counting rows in pairs is a habit worth building early.
Step 6: Fasten off
Snip the yarn, leaving a tail of about 6 inches, draw it through the final loop on the hook and pull gently to secure. “Weave in ends” means threading each tail onto a yarn needle and running it back and forth through the wrong side of the stitches so it cannot work loose.
Mistakes beginners make when reading patterns
- Confusing US and UK terms. Stitches that come out much taller or shorter than the photo are a sign the wrong system is being followed.
- Getting the turning chain wrong. Some patterns treat a ch-3 as the first double crochet; others do not. The notes section states which, and the stitch count confirms it.
- Working into the wrong spot. “In next st” means under both top loops. “In ch-2 sp” means into the gap beneath a chain, not into the chain itself. “In BLO” means the back loop only.
- Ignoring stitch counts. Counting takes seconds; ripping back five rows takes much longer.
- Losing track of the row. A sticky note, a row counter or a printed copy to tick off all help. Highlighting each repeat in a different color is another good trick.
- Skipping gauge on fitted projects. A hat that comes out 10 percent small will not stretch to fit.
- Not reading the special stitches section. One designer’s puff stitch may use three yarn overs and another’s four. Always use the definition given in the pattern in front of you.
About crochet charts
Some patterns provide a chart alongside the written text. A chart represents each stitch with a symbol: an oval for a chain, a cross or plus sign for single crochet, a “T” with a single crossbar for double crochet, and so on. Charts for rows are read from the bottom upward, and charts for rounds from the center outward. They are especially useful for lace and motifs, where the written line would otherwise run very long. Charts are not required to get started, but once the abbreviations feel natural, they are worth exploring; plenty of crocheters find them quicker to follow than text.
Frequently asked questions
Does the turning chain count as a stitch?
It varies from pattern to pattern. In general, a ch-1 before single crochet does not count and a ch-3 before double crochet frequently does, but designers differ. The pattern notes will say, and the stitch count at the end of the row confirms it.
What does “sc in each st across” mean?
Make one single crochet into every stitch of the row below, from the first to the last. The row should finish with the same number of stitches it started with.
What is the difference between rows and rounds?
Rows go back and forth, with the work turned at the end of each, and produce flat pieces such as scarves and blankets. Rounds travel in a circle, usually without turning, and produce tubes and discs such as hats, baskets and amigurumi.
Can a different yarn be substituted?
Yes, provided it is the same weight (worsted for worsted, for example) and the gauge still matches. Changing fiber changes how the fabric drapes and feels, so swatch first for anything that has to fit.
Which patterns are good for a first project?
Choose patterns rated beginner or easy that use only chains, single crochet and double crochet and give a stitch count for every row. Washcloths, plain scarves and basic granny squares are all sensible starting points.
Next step
Patterns worked in the round, including most amigurumi and top-down hats, usually begin with “MR” or “magic ring”. If that abbreviation is new to you, the Savor Queen guide to the crochet magic ring (magic circle) shows every hand position and yarn path with a photo for each step.
